Monday, June 25, 2007

Puppy Care Tips: How to Care for a Puppy

Bringing a new puppy home, especially when you have young children, is a wonderful experience. To see your children's faces light up when they see the new puppy for the first time. With all of the joy and fun it is easy to forget that a new puppy has a lot of needs that an adult dog does not. Without the right puppy care tips and advice it becomes difficult to raise the puppy right.

How to Care for a Newborn Puppy

If you decide to get a newborn puppy there are a few important puppy care tips that you need to keep in mind. * Protect the newborn puppy from being accidentally stepped upon or falling down the stairs. * A newborn puppy is not able to regulate its body temperature that easily, they need to be kept warm. A simple way of doing this is to put an electric blanket under one half of the puppy bedding. This will allow the puppy, when it gets too warm, to move over to the unheated side to cool off.

The Basics of Caring for Older Puppies

When the puppy litter reaches about eight weeks old, the owner will begin the process for finding homes for the puppies. This is a good time for a puppy to be placed into a new home. It no longer is dependent upon is mother and is able to eat solid food. Before you select the puppy for your family it is necessary to have purchased the basic supplies to provide good puppy care. * A space where the puppy can play, sleep and eat. This area should be cordoned off so that the puppy will not be able to teethe on your shoes. * A soft bed for the puppy to sleep in. A low walled card board box works well as a puppy bed.

A common puppy care tip is to frequently play with your puppy. Puppies, no matter what breed they are, crave lots of attention. Are you concerned that your puppy may not like your children, baby or other pet? If so, let your puppy interact with them in an observed environment. Over time your puppy will be come familiar with them and enjoy being around them.

Safe & Healthy Puppy

One of the many puppy care tips that are very important is to take you puppy to the vet to keep it up to date on the puppy's vaccinations. This is equally important even if your puppy is and will be an indoor dog.

The most important puppy care tip is to love on your puppy frequently. It will create a strong bond between the two of you. Administer disciple as needed to correct bad behaviour but provide lots of love and affection to.

Parrot Care Tips: Choosing the Best Parrot Cage on the Market

The cage is your beloved parrot's home. Any living being should have good home so you have to be sure that you can provide your parrot with the best conditions. Also if you choose the parrot cage wisely than you will avoid some parrot care problems that can appear in the future.

The parrot cage should be the largest expense after practically buying the parrot. So if you are going to spend some money then be sure to spend them on a good deal.

The parrot is going to spend a lot of time in the cage so you'll have to choose the right one for your pet. There are three parrot care issues that you should take in consideration when you are decided to buy a parrot cage. The most important parrot care issue is you bird's safety. There are many cases where parrots got injured or killed because of their cage.

I will try to discuss al this three parrot care points that you should have in mind when you are going to buy a parrot cage.

Safety - Like i already said safety is the most important thing when choosing a parrot cage. You can find Knock down cages on the market. You you buy one of those than you'll have to examine it very good to see if there are any pieces that can be easily removed by you parrot. If there are than i don't advice you to buy this kind of parrot cages because the little pieces can be swallowed by you parrot.

The majority of parrot cages i saw in pet stores are built from different metals like wire, stainless steel, zinc. From what i found so far the wire parrot cages are the most economical. but you mustn't forget to inspect the cage regularly for broken welds or broken wires.

You can find metal parrot cages at a medium prices on the market. This parrot cages are built in a variety of metals shapes and colors.

The most expensive parrot cage that you can find in your search is the Stainless steel cage. The advantages of this type of parrot cages is that they will never rust or cause metal poisoning. So i think that if you are ready to make a good deal, buying a stainless steal parrot cage would be the perfect choice. Even if it's expensive i can ensure you that you'll never have to replace it.

One important safety issue is the bar spacing. When you buy a parrot cage make sure that the bar spacing is smaller than you parrot's head. This way you can be sure that your pet's head won't get stuck between the bars.

Size - another important aspect for a parrot cage is it's size. The best thing you can do is to go to a pet store and buy the largest parrot cage that you can find in your budget range. A big parrot cage gives more freedom to your parrot and it will have a happier life. Keep in mind that the width of the parrot cage is more important than the height. Mostly, your parrot will fly from side to side.

The components of the parrot cage is the last but not least of the important aspects when buying parrot cages. Swing out feeders are a good way to feed your parrot especially the aggressive ones.

You can also buy food dishes for you parrot cage. This accessories also come in different styles and colors.

Try to find a parrot cage that has an entry door big enough to get the bird out easily. Remember that parrots are very smart so they can learn how to open the cage doors. If this happens then you will have to take some security measures and ad some new components so the parrot won't be able to open the door anymore.

Also try to look for a parrot cage with removable litter trays. This way You will clean the cage with no effort and your bird won't reach the old left over food.

In conclusion if you want a happy and healthy parrot you must provide him with a good home. If the parrot cage meets all he parrot care aspects that i mentioned above then you can be sure that your pet will live healthy in peace.

Sunday, June 24, 2007

Safety Tips for Moving With Pets

Which kind is your pet? The pooch who is the first one in the car when the door opens, or the kitty who runs to hide at the first hint of travel? Both kinds face dangers on the road, but there are steps you can take to protect them. Even the happiest traveler can get into trouble, and it can happen even on a short jaunt to the grocery store.

What can you do?

1. Always use ID tags. When traveling, add an extra tag with your cell phone number. If you don’t use a cell phone, add the number of a trusted friend who will be at home while you’re on the road.

2. If your pets are microchipped, be sure to call and update your address and phone number. If they aren’t microchipped, consider having it done.

3. Keep your pet contained. The back of a pickup is NOT a safe place, but if your pet must travel there, either put him in a secure carrier, or cross tie him so there’s no chance that he can fall or be thrown over the side. Falling from trucks is a major cause of lost and/or injured pets. Sometimes the fall is fatal. Also, remember that the temperature of your metal pickup bed corresponds to the weather. Use a liner so that you don’t burn his feet, or freeze them!

4. While a few cats travel well in cars and stay put, they should ride in a carrier so they can’t jump out when the door opens and can’t suddenly decide to ride under the driver’s feet or around his or her neck.

5. If at all possible, contain your dogs in a carrier inside the car. This is a safety precaution for both you and the dog.

6. Remember the heat factor. Don’t take your pet if you’ll have to stop for more than 5 minutes on a hot day. Temperatures inside your vehicle can reach killer heights in a matter of minutes. You love him…don’t cook him! Cold weather holds a similar danger for your short haired friends.

7. Take water and a water dish! When you reach for a drink remember your pet probably needs one too.

8. When you stop for a potty break, keep your pet on a leash. Even the most well trained dog can become frightened and bolt. You don’t want your best friend running in traffic, and you don’t want him lost up a mountain side or wandering in a strange city.

9. Don’t discount anxiety. For pets who don’t like to ride, anxiety comes from the trip itself. Moving to a new home can cause emotional upset for ALL pets. Your vet can prescribe a sedative for extreme anxiety, and there are also homeopathic products to help calm their nerves. Check at your nearest pet store.

10. Plan ahead and be sure to take medical records on long trips or moves. If you’re missing any vaccination certificates, ask your vet for copies. You may have to give proof of vaccinations if crossing state lines. If you’re relocating, your new veterinarian will want to know your pet’s medical history, when he had his last vaccinations, etc. Proof of rabies protection is vital at this time, because an emotionally distraught pet could bite. (Yes, even your dog who has never hurt a fly.) Without proof of a rabies vaccination the dog would have to be quarantined, if not put down.

Moving day is a dangerous time for your pets. Take these additional precautions:

Containment: Do NOT try to keep an eye on the dog and cat and the moving all at the same time. Doors will be opening constantly and no one can watch every minute.

If your new home has a secure fenced yard in an area where the movers (or the family) will not need to go back and forth, it could be a safe place, but check often. Stop occasionally to give a treat or throw a ball… let him know that this is an OK place and that you are nearby.

If you own a kennel cage, put it up first and put your dog inside until things settle down. Be sure to stop and talk to him now and then.

If you own kennels that your pets use for sleeping or riding, place them in the quietest room of the house and put your pets in them until the movers have left or everything is unloaded. Leave the cats in their travel carriers until you’re sure the doors won’t be opened by movers.

If you have no fenced yard and your dog is accustomed to staying home without one, be sure to go outside with him the first several days. If you must leave him outside alone, tie him on a long chain or cable tie. (Not a rope - they are too easily chewed.) You and the dog may hate the idea, but his safety is worth a few days of discomfort.

Anxiety:

If your dog sees his role in life as protector, he or she will hate the movers being there and handling your belongings. Put him in the back bedroom or the yard where he can’t see what’s going on. Don’t let him follow them back and forth, because this is a sure formula for disaster. You don’t need your dog being lost or hurt, and you don’t need to deal with your insurance over a dog bite. Remember, even the calmest dog WILL BITE if severely provoked.

Remember that moving to a new home is traumatic for your pets. After things settle down on moving day let them take a tour of the house, with you along acting relaxed and happy. Don’t transmit your fatigue to your pets!

Understand that your housebroken friend may relapse at this time. If your new home was formerly occupied by other pets yours may feel a need to “mark” their territory. Not a pleasant thing, and not to be condoned, but don’t go ballistic on them. If it appears that marking will be an ongoing problem you may have to shampoo the carpets with a special shampoo designed to kill the odors left by previous pets.

Julia loves all animals, but has a special affinity for dogs. She helped found an animal rescue in her town and lives with 3 "rescue dogs" of her own. Or maybe she belongs to the three rescue dogs. In her spare time she volunteers to write fund raising letters for small rescues.

Toilet Training for Dogs - Tips from Animal Behaviorists

Generally, dogs are very clean animals - they won't soil close to where they eat, or where they sleep. But living in a house is unnatural for an animal whose instincts would be to roam wherever she wants to go, so you will have to help her learn where and when she can relieve herself.

It is essential that you form good toilet habits for your dog as early on as possible. Trying to break the habit of a dog is quite difficult and it can be very frustrating. You need to use guidance and encouragement to help the pet. Animal behaviorists have some helpful tips that you can use to help with the housebreaking of your pet.

Believe it or not, dogs are sanitary creatures. If a dog does soil accidentally in the wrong place, it is likely that it will be far from his dog dish, at least six to ten feet. This is true for the place where the dog sleeps as well. But, unless you find a good place for her to go and train her in that manner, the rest of your house is okay to them.

The process for housebreaking a dog is the same if he is a puppy or an adult dog new to your home. You’ll need to take him outside every few hours and also 30 minutes after he eats. Take your pet to the designated bathroom spot. Stay with the pet until she goes, and then praise her when she does. If she does not go, bring her back inside and try again in fifteen minutes. Watch her though. If the dog starts sniffing and circling take them out right away as this is a sign that she is about to go. Pay attention to her signs and take her out. Soon, she will relate to going outside to going to the bathroom.

Some dogs are housebroken much faster than others. Some dog’s personality will cause her to go one way or the other. But, if you take her outside at the right time, it will go smoother. A puppy of less than four months old will need to go out during the night. Older puppies can hold it that long. A dog that cries to be let out has an urgent need. Get up and take her out, she needs every chance to succeed that she can get. Positive reinforcement is necessary for success.

How you treat accidents will affect your dog’s overall learning curve. If you catch your dog going in the act, distract her with a clap or call her name. Take her outside calmly at that time and praise her for finishing outside. Clean up any accident that you find on the floor. If the dog approaches during this time, ignore her. Don’t talk to or punish her at this point. The worst thing that you can do is to yell at her or physically punish her. This will cause her to fear you and to not bond as well to you. She won’t connect it to the accident at all. Ignoring her is the best course of action here.

Training Dogs: Tips On Breaking Bad Pet Habits

You want a nice, disciplined dog, who doesn't chew on anything and everything in the sight and doesn't deafen you with his needless barks. These are one of the most common dog problems and can be really irritating at times. They can, however, be corrected by proper training. Here are a few effective ways of bringing in correction in your dog's habits:

Barking Barking come naturally to them, and what use is a dog that doesn't even bark. However, at time dogs overdo it and keep barking without a reason and sometimes even after their barks have been taken cognizance of and the offending element removed. Then, it is high time he had his lessons in "barking habits."

Most often dogs bark to tell the owner what they feel he must know, like an intruder, any unusual moving object, any unusual activity or sound. They feel that it is important for them to inform you at the earliest. This kind of warning bark is perfectly alright, but if your dog keep barking even after having been told not to, he needs to be trained about it.

In such situations take a squirt bottle filled with water, and every time the dog barks unnecessarily squirt the liquid right in his face after telling him not to bark in a loud “No”. The liquid or the squirt wouldn't harm the creature but he wouldn't like it and would get the message eventually. This is disciplinary action and must be adopted only when the dog doesn't respond to your verbal commands. Keep it as a second option and not the first.

Chewing Chewing is not only destructive but is potentially dangerous to the dog as well, because they might ingest pieces of plastic or wood or any other harmful object that could block their intestines, which could be life threatening. Puppies' chewing is acceptable because that's part of teething, but if the habit is retained into adulthood, it needs to be corrected.

It is better to start early. So, you need not wait till the dog grows up to teach him not to chew on things that are not meant for his chewing. The strategy for the pup as well as for the dog remain the same. Get some toys for the dog to chew on, and train him to restrict his chewing to them. Watch him carefully and if he chews on things other than his chew toys, look into his eyes at close quarters and say in a loud voice, “No!” and then offer one of his chew toys. He would get the message as to what has to be chewed on and what not.

Begging for food Never give the dog to eat from your dinner table or your plate. Make him learn that he gets nothing by begging for food but gets to eat at the proper time. And if, unfortunately you already have a dog who has such a habit lock him up in another room while you eat.

You want dogs to behave well, but good behaviour is not something one is born with. One-- be it a human or a dog-- has to learn to behave. So, right training is the key.

Road Trip With Pets - Five Tips For A Stress Free Ride

Millions of Americans are expected to hit the roads this summer, headed for vacation destinations around the country, and many of those travelers will be accompanied by their beloved pets.

For many a road trip is a fun, even relaxing, experience away from the stresses of everyday life. But, for pets who aren't used to traveling in the car, a road trip could cause unnecessary stress. Fortunately, you can ensure both you and your pet's trip is stress free by following a few simple rules.

Take your pet for rides

If your pet isn't used to car travel, start taking her for drives. Start by taking only short trips of five to ten minutes, and slowly work your way up to longer car trips. The car trips will help in two important ways. First, your pet will become familiar and comfortable with traveling in the car.

Second, she'll begin to understand that every time she goes in the car, she's going to come home again. This is an important trust building experience, especially for those pets who have been adopted and may have been abandoned in the past. Once your pet becomes accustomed to traveling in the car, she may just come running every time she hears you jingle your keys.

If you discover that even short rides cause your pet too much stress, discuss the problem with your veterinarian. Your vet should know your pet's temperament and should be able to provide you with additional advice.

Feed your pet prior to your drive

Make sure you feed your pet three to four hours prior to your departure. After all, you don't want to risk her getting sick in the car. Certain pets, however, will require food even while you're driving. Rabbits, for example, must have constant access to hay, so if you have a rabbit, ensure she has hay she can munch on in her carrier.

Bring fresh tap or bottled water

Keep an adequate supply of water in the car for your pet. According to the ASPCA, it's best to bring bottled or tap water (from home) in the car rather than giving your pet water from rest stops. Your pet's stomach may become unsettled should you give her unfamiliar water.

Make sure your pet is secure

When your pet rides in the car, you must make sure she is secure. Most pets, like cats and rabbits, must and can easily travel in a carrier. Dogs, however, have several options. Like cats and rabbits, dogs can comfortably travel in a carrier. Or, you can purchase a safety harness specifically designed for use in the car.

If your pet is in a carrier, ensure you put the carrier in a safe place. NEVER put your pet's carrier on the floor in the front seat where she'll be exposed to toxic fumes. There have been pets who have died as a result of being exposed to such fumes.

Additionally, many pets, dogs in particular, love to ride in the car with their heads out the window. Regardless of how happy your pet is to stick her out the window, don't allow it. Otherwise, she'll be at risk of particles getting into and damaging her eyes.

Never leave your pet alone in the car

You'll need to stop for plenty of breaks during your road trip – for the sake of yourself and your pet. Breaks are a great way to allow your pet, especially your dog, to get out of the car and stretch her legs. Rest stops generally have areas specifically designed for pets that you can use to give your pet a chance to relieve herself and get some exercise.

Even if your pet can't get out of the car, never leave her alone in your vehicle. Leaving a pet in the car is dangerous any time of the year, but it's particularly worrisome in the summer. You may take all the precautions – from parking in the shade to leaving the window open a crack – to ensure your pet isn't overheated, but the fact is your car is going to become a furnace in only minutes.

Don't leave your pet in the car alone, or you risk her suffering from dehydration or heat stroke, which can lead to death.